Care instructions
Leather shows a history of what it has experienced, from the animal it came from, to the animal or human that gives it a second life.
Vege tanned leather will patina as it ages. You may notice some areas get darker due to handling while others get lighter due to sun exposure. Chrome tanned leather doesn't patina, but you may notice other signs of wear and life. All leathers that aren't coated with layers of finish (leather makeup) will show the experience of skin, such as branding numbers, scratches, markings, stretch marks, cuts, and creasing. This is a normal part of the lifespan of leather and just shows that it was an animal that once lived, is now being lived in, and experienced a life and is being well loved in it’s second-life.
Leather is not meant to be perfect. It is meant to be durable, but with the right care, leather lasts five times longer than other fabrics, and, depending on how you use the product, it can last you for decades of debauchery. Below are some guidelines on how to care for your leather.
Vegetable tanned leather
Vege-tanned leather is called such because tanneries use vegetation such as bark, acorns, gallnuts, the leaves of sumac, the leaves of certain acacia trees, the outer green shells of walnuts, among other plants. The resulting leather is then oiled, stretched, and trimmed in production.
Vege-tanned leather is a stiffer leather when the tanning process is complete, as well as a more uniform color when dyed. Vegetable tanned leathers tend to require more break-in, as they are a little less pliable than other leathers, but also more durable. They respond well to stamping and engraving, but are also more prone to surface scratches and indentations. They take polish well and also respond very well to applying conditioners and greases for waterproofing and preservation. If shining is a top priority, they do take a shine but aren't always as easy to get to the high mirror shine as other kinds. Vege-tanned leather also develops patina over time, which many people find highly desirable in quality leather items.
To improve longevity, Every 4 months or after it gets really dirty or feels dry, you can clean it with a little spritz of water and a little bit of saddle soap or glycerin soap with a soft bristle brush. Make a good lather and scrub gently. Wipe it down and then condition it with a leather balm. The type of balm you choose is important, as some balms/ conditioners will significantly darken leather. Generally, conditioners based with beeswax and lanolin (like ours), do not darken the leather. Let it air dry, as heat drying can cause shrinkage. Do not let it get wet in salty or chlorinated water as this will dry out your leather and make it prone to cracking and breaking.
Chrome tanned leather
Chrome tanned leather is treated to a manmade chemical bath, particularly one rich in chromium sulfate. The solution has the same effect as vegetable tannins in terms of the effect in preservation, though the final product will differ. The use of chrome tanning arose during the Industrial Revolution, and has largely dominated vegetable tanning as the method of producing leather, given that synthetic compounds can be made on an industrial scale and are easier to procure in quantity than organic ones. Chrome tanned leather makes up roughly 90% of the worlds leather production.
Chrome-tanned leathers tend to be more pliable and softer than vegetable-tanned leather, reducing the break-in period. For hides that have no grain texture, chrome-tanned leather takes a high-mirror shine like nobody's business. Chrome-tanned leather also tends to maintain a more uniform appearance over time, without developing the patina that vegetable tanned leather is known for. It also resists indentations, but as a draw back, it cannot be stamped or carved like you see with vege-tanned leather. It also tends to resist dye and as such, is typically dyed at the tannery instead of during studio production. It's more supple than vegetable tanned leather, but also doesn't have the same stiffness, making it a little less suited to working applications requiring the utmost of support. It's great for light duty, but not necessarily for hard-working professions.
Generally, cleaning chrome-tanned leather requires less effort than cleaning vegetable-tanned leather. The nature of chrome-tanned leather makes it stain-resistant and less prone to drying out over time, so an occasional wipe with a damp cloth could be all you need. Nevertheless, you may need a thorough cleaning one day, so here's how you'd do that.
You can clean chrome-tanned leather with a little spritz of water and a little bit of saddle soap or glycerin soap with a soft bristle brush. Make a good lather and scrub gently with a clean cloth or soft bristle brush with the solution. In small circular motions, wipe the surface of the leather piece to remove dust, dirt, and debris. Let the leather air dry. Once the leather dries, you can apply a small amount of waterproof wax. Because this leather doesn’t absorb like vege-tan leather, oils will actually clog the pores of the leather, causing it to stay moist and rot over time, so you’ll want to buff out your conditioner of choice really well after letting it sit for 10-20 minutes. Afterwards, you can use a colored shoe polish to add color back into the hide if it had faded with age and wear, and then buff it to a shine once it dries.
You can re-apply these products on the leather at your discretion. For instance, your shoes might need a little TLC every few months, but your flogger might never need it. You can clean and condition chrome tanned leather once in a lifetime, every year, every six months, or if the shine is gone. Chrome tanned leather is very low maintenance like that. Avoid storing the leather items in sunlight or wet places.
Suede and Nubuck Leather
Suede leather is made from the underside of the skin, primarily from lamb and goat. Splits from thick hides of cow and deer are also sueded, but, due to the fiber content, have a shaggy nap. Nubuck leather, is made from the outer (top-grain) layer. The top-grain layer is tougher and more resilient than the inner layer used to make suede. Leather tanneries sand and buff the top-grain to provide a slight nap of short protein fibers, giving a velvet-like texture.
Suede and nubuck are particular leathers, as they don’t like getting wet. Cleaning and care should be very minimal to keep them soft. You can brush off dirt with a suede brush and use an eraser to get rid of stains. If a good clean is necessary, I recommend Bickmore's Suede and Nubuck Cleaner, which will help in the cleaning process and condition as well. Another alternative to assist with cleaning suede and Nubuck is using distilled vinegar to clean the leather, letting it air dry, and then brushing the nap back up with a dry suede brush. This will dry out the leather and slightly lift the color, so only do this in a pinch or on really dirty jobs (like if you stepped in dog poop), You’ll want to apply vinegar evenly to the entire piece and not just the “dirty” section, as it could cause color splotching if you simply spot clean. Follow up with a suede specific conditioner as regular conditioner will slick down the nap. Again, Brickmore is my go to for this.
I hope this guide helps you enjoy your leather accessories, and if you need help, stop by the bootblack stand at a dungeon. We’re happy to help.
- Ray
