Upcoming Changes 3.18.24

Welp, I did it, I ordered a catalog of leather swatches!

For the past few years I have always chose the route of buying natural leather and hand dying every piece that I make. I have at least 12 color options posted, and a few other experimental dyes that I never showed the public (hint, one of them is on the cathedral paddles).

Well, it's time to change things up so that I can amp up my production speed and hopefully make things a little more affordable.

Dye is finicky. It's messy, It takes time to do, time to set, a little science and guesswork, and then you have to recondition the hide and put a protective layer over it so it doesn't stain everything it touches.

I was hell bent on trying to make everything I do customizable for customers, but honestly, it's not a sustainable business model. With that said, made-to-order stuff that I've been dying will be remade into a ready-to-ship option or a customize-dye option at an additional charge. But, I am essentially fazing out this method as my main method of creating.

We will be starting off with the standard Black and Red fetish colors and expanding to more colors as the demand fits.

-Ray
Underground Leather

Holiday order announcements

Last call for commission orders for anything you want done by the holiday season.

Deadline is November 15th. After that I am closing comissions until February to prepare for vending markets and creating new projects.

This pause effects comissions only. It does not effect in-stock items that are customizable. In-stock items have templates and some even have pre-cut leather. Commissions require me to make design templates from scratch. I simply will not have the time for start-from-scratch projects if they are not placed before the deadline.

Between November 15th - February you can still place orders for things I have in-stock on the website, and many of my items allow custom colors and hardware.

Please note the turn around times for projects that I have on the website.

The deadline to place any order for a Holiday expected gift is December 1st. Do not wait until the last minute to place a holiday gift.

I know, capitalism has made us all ignorant of how fast the means of production is thanks to everything being made in factories with two day shipping, but real leatherwork is NOT like that. Some leatherworkers have faster turn around times because they have average sizing charts, die-cut presses, and pre-dyed leathers. I have a longer turn around time because I dye my leather in house so that you can choose from several color options and I hand cut my leather specifically to the measurements you provide. I'm a one person show providing an insane amount of customization options, the trade off of slow production is worth the wait, I promise.

Once again, November 15th is the cutoff for custom work due by the holidays and custom orders will reopen in February. December 1st is the cutoff for in-stock orders due by the holidays.

Lastly if you aren't in the Athens area, please just pay for shipping. Don't wait on me to be in the Atlanta area at a dungeon party. I cannot guarantee we will show up at the same parties for order handoffs.

Now I'm gonna go stare at a mirror and tell myself that I'm not an asshole for having to place boundaries in regards to my business.

Thanks for understanding and sending me work to do. Here's hoping in 2024 I can quit my part time job thanks to y'all 🤞

• Ray

Care instructions

Leather shows a history of what it has experienced, from the animal it came from, to the animal or human that gives it a second life.

Vege tanned leather will patina as it ages. You may notice some areas get darker due to handling while others get lighter due to sun exposure. Chrome tanned leather doesn't patina, but you may notice other signs of wear and life. All leathers that aren't coated with layers of finish (leather makeup) will show the experience of skin, such as branding numbers, scratches, markings, stretch marks, cuts, and creasing. This is a normal part of the lifespan of leather and just shows that it was an animal that once lived, is now being lived in, and experienced a life and is being well loved in it’s second-life. 

Leather is not meant to be perfect. It is meant to be durable, but with the right care, leather lasts five times longer than other fabrics, and, depending on how you use the product, it can last you for decades of debauchery. Below are some guidelines on how to care for your leather.

Vegetable tanned leather

Vege-tanned leather is called such because tanneries use vegetation such as bark, acorns, gallnuts, the leaves of sumac, the leaves of certain acacia trees, the outer green shells of walnuts, among other plants. The resulting leather is then oiled, stretched, and trimmed in production.

Vege-tanned leather is a stiffer leather when the tanning process is complete, as well as a more uniform color when dyed. Vegetable tanned leathers tend to require more break-in, as they are a little less pliable than other leathers, but also more durable. They respond well to stamping and engraving, but are also more prone to surface scratches and indentations. They take polish well and also respond very well to applying conditioners and greases for waterproofing and preservation. If shining is a top priority, they do take a shine but aren't always as easy to get to the high mirror shine as other kinds. Vege-tanned leather also develops patina over time, which many people find highly desirable in quality leather items.

To improve longevity, Every 4 months or after it gets really dirty or feels dry, you can clean it with a little spritz of water and a little bit of saddle soap or glycerin soap with a soft bristle brush. Make a good lather and scrub gently. Wipe it down and then condition it with a leather balm. The type of balm you choose is important, as some balms/ conditioners will significantly darken leather. Generally, conditioners based with beeswax and lanolin (like ours), do not darken the leather. Let it air dry, as heat drying can cause shrinkage. Do not let it get wet in salty or chlorinated water as this will dry out your leather and make it prone to cracking and breaking.

Chrome tanned leather

Chrome tanned leather is treated to a manmade chemical bath, particularly one rich in chromium sulfate. The solution has the same effect as vegetable tannins in terms of the effect in preservation, though the final product will differ. The use of chrome tanning arose during the Industrial Revolution, and has largely dominated vegetable tanning as the method of producing leather, given that synthetic compounds can be made on an industrial scale and are easier to procure in quantity than organic ones. Chrome tanned leather makes up roughly 90% of the worlds leather production.

Chrome-tanned leathers tend to be more pliable and softer than vegetable-tanned leather, reducing the break-in period. For hides that have no grain texture, chrome-tanned leather takes a high-mirror shine like nobody's business. Chrome-tanned leather also tends to maintain a more uniform appearance over time, without developing the patina that vegetable tanned leather is known for. It also resists indentations, but as a draw back, it cannot be stamped or carved like you see with vege-tanned leather. It also tends to resist dye and as such, is typically dyed at the tannery instead of during studio production. It's more supple than vegetable tanned leather, but also doesn't have the same stiffness, making it a little less suited to working applications requiring the utmost of support. It's great for light duty, but not necessarily for hard-working professions.

Generally, cleaning chrome-tanned leather requires less effort than cleaning vegetable-tanned leather. The nature of chrome-tanned leather makes it stain-resistant and less prone to drying out over time, so an occasional wipe with a damp cloth could be all you need. Nevertheless, you may need a thorough cleaning one day, so here's how you'd do that. 

You can clean chrome-tanned leather with a little spritz of water and a little bit of saddle soap or glycerin soap with a soft bristle brush. Make a good lather and scrub gently with a clean cloth or soft bristle brush with the solution. In small circular motions, wipe the surface of the leather piece to remove dust, dirt, and debris. Let the leather air dry. Once the leather dries, you can apply a small amount of waterproof wax. Because this leather doesn’t absorb like vege-tan leather, oils will actually clog the pores of the leather, causing it to stay moist and rot over time, so you’ll want to buff out your conditioner of choice really well after letting it sit for 10-20 minutes. Afterwards, you can use a colored shoe polish to add color back into the hide if it had faded with age and wear, and then buff it to a shine once it dries.

You can re-apply these products on the leather at your discretion. For instance, your shoes might need a little TLC every few months, but your flogger might never need it. You can clean and condition chrome tanned leather once in a lifetime, every year, every six months, or if the shine is gone. Chrome tanned leather is very low maintenance like that. Avoid storing the leather items in sunlight or wet places.

Suede and Nubuck Leather

Suede leather is made from the underside of the skin, primarily from lamb and goat. Splits from thick hides of cow and deer are also sueded, but, due to the fiber content, have a shaggy nap. Nubuck leather, is made from the outer (top-grain) layer. The top-grain layer is tougher and more resilient than the inner layer used to make suede. Leather tanneries sand and buff the top-grain to provide a slight nap of short protein fibers, giving a velvet-like texture.

Suede and nubuck are particular leathers, as they don’t like getting wet. Cleaning and care should be very minimal to keep them soft. You can brush off dirt with a suede brush and use an eraser to get rid of stains. If a good clean is necessary, I recommend Bickmore's Suede and Nubuck Cleaner, which will help in the cleaning process and condition as well. Another alternative to assist with cleaning suede and Nubuck is using distilled vinegar to clean the leather, letting it air dry, and then brushing the nap back up with a dry suede brush. This will dry out the leather and slightly lift the color, so only do this in a pinch or on really dirty jobs (like if you stepped in dog poop), You’ll want to apply vinegar evenly to the entire piece and not just the “dirty” section, as it could cause color splotching if you simply spot clean. Follow up with a suede specific conditioner as regular conditioner will slick down the nap. Again, Brickmore is my go to for this.

I hope this guide helps you enjoy your leather accessories, and if you need help, stop by the bootblack stand at a dungeon. We’re happy to help.

- Ray

Bootblacking and Etiquette

So there's a bootblack at your dungeon and you're curious….

What is this service?
Is it a scene?
Is this a kink?
What is it even for anyway?
Should I tip?

What is bootblacking?

At the most basic level, a bootblack is sometimes compared to a shoeshiner, like a person you might see at an airport or in a mall. Personally I think this is like comparing folgers to fair-trade gourmet coffee; both may be coffee but one is much higher quality than the other. Both a shoe shiner and a bootblack will shine your shoes while you wear them and both will likely engage you in conversation as they do so. But for a bootblack, leather care is a passion, and although boots are usually the main focus at events, we can give tlc to just about any leather clothing or toys. In bootblacking, I have shined shoes, cleaned paddles, polished corsets, massaged collars, and conditioned jackets.

There is a love for the leather, an interest in what the leather stands for, and a curiosity about the journey you have taken it on; and as they do a shine, they will commonly ask and learn about what the leather means to you.

Are you a biker and do these leathers protect your ride? Are you military? Did your protector gift you these leathers? Are these the boots you'll be stepping on your submissive with later? Is this the first leather you bought after financial struggle as a treat? Are you someone who identifies as Leather? What have you learned on your kink journey?

A bootblack is stationed at a chair in the dungeon to give quality service and attention to the leather you own. Oftentimes those leathers cost you a lot of money. They are something of value that deserve to be cared for. They serve as a second skin and part of your identity in the world of leather and kink. Sometimes they are worn for exclusive events and represent your dynamic. Sometimes they are worn daily and are loved like an old friend. Sometimes they are your most used tool for your job. Whether they are valuable to you because of the price you paid, or in memories and years, they deserve care, and they have a story to be told. And though every bootblack has different techniques, I think we can all agree that the listening ear we provide for our services is the greatest tool we have in our kits.

Bootblacking is a headspace of service and scene. Bootblacks come in all shapes, sizes, kink identities, and genders. Not all are submissive or will act submissively. Not all see it as an erotic act. Some do. But for most, this service is not power exchange (unless agreed upon). Bootblack service is an energy exchange. There is equality in what you are both exchanging in this moment. Those are YOUR leathers, and you get to negotiate what you want from that scene. Your bootblack is your scene partner, and although they may be seated beneath you on their knees or in a kneeling chair, they are still an equal in this service because this is THEIR skill.

What can you expect and how should you behave in the bootblack chair?

First off, have an introduction and then tell your bootblack what you want for your leather. While most bootblacks have a general knowledge of how to clean, condition, or shine leather, it would be unfair to assume your bootblack knows how YOU want your shine if you never discussed it. If you are unsure, you can ask your bootblack their recommendations and what they are capable of doing. In general, patent leathers are usually shined with a color matching cream, oil finished leathers are conditioned with oil, wax, or grease, and suedes are "dry cleaned". Some bootblacks expand their knowledge to include scratch repairs, burning frayed stitching, recoloring stitching, fun lace patterns, calf massages, and general repairs. On the flip side, some people like seeing the wear and tear their leathers have lived through and may not want intense work done to their leathers, so it's important to have this negotiation on what you want done and what your bootblack can provide.

Remember that having your leather serviced doesn’t automatically give you permission to grope, act as a top, or make inappropriate remarks. If the energy is right, if it feels comfortable and the connection is right, then it could lead to some bootworship, but think of that as the exception rather than the rule. Be led by the negotiation and then by the energy exchange and what it leads to. On the flip side, If you feel your bootblack is behaving inappropriately towards you, please speak up if that is not the kind of interaction you are interested in.

Please stay off your phone. You are an active participant in this scene. You can talk about your leathers history. You can talk about your day. You can talk about something that's been stressful for you lately. You can ask questions about leather care so you can try doing it yourself in between visits to the bootblack stand. You can crack jokes. Be present.

Don't touch a bootblacks kit without permission. Just like you wouldn't touch someone else's toy bag, you shouldn't rummage through ours either. A bootblacks kit is their toy bag. If you're curious about what is in a bootblacks kit, ask. We're delighted to show you what we use to take care of your leathers, but remember to pair curiosity with courtesy.

If you're standing by watching a bootblack scene, observe but don’t interrupt. You wouldn’t interrupt someone flogging their sub, so don’t interrupt a bootblack who is focused on their craft. Some people are fine with the bootblack stand turning into a social circle, and some think of bootblacking as one-on-one physical and mental tlc. Personally, I think this is up to the person in the chair, not the bootblack, because this is their time of being serviced, so they get to decide how it goes. You may ask the person in the chair if it's okay to ask questions, but in general, it is better to simply wait until the scene is over to ask your questions or to book your slot in the chair. Again, the most respectful thing you can do is remember to pair your curiosity with courtesy.

Yes, tip you bootblack if you can! Bootblack supplies cost money, and bootblacking takes physical energy and mental focus. We're often hunched over on our knees, providing physical and emotional labor as a service to our local community. Bootblacking is a labor of love, and your tips generally cover the costs to replenish supplies. 15-20$ is about average, and you can tip more for above and beyond work. If you don't have the means to tip, that's okay! Most people tip enough where the occasional leather service will be payed forward and your bootblack will still be happy to service your leather as an act of kindness.

Other things to consider:

Do you have allergies? Some products regularly used by bootblacks contain nut, soy or lanolin. And just about all bootblack products contain beeswax.

Are your leathers going to be used in sexual scenes? Chemicals in shoe polish such as petroleum, naphtha, turpentine, and dyes can cause symptoms if injested or skin reactions on genitals, so check in with your bootblack on if they have natural, non-toxic creams if you or your play partners like licking or bare-humping boots.

Faux leather, if it is not flaking and tearing, can be shined with the same products we use on real leather, so yes, you can bring your faux leather goods to the chair as well.

If you wore your leathers to burning man, please warn your bootblack!! Playa, desert sand, is an alkaline dust that alters the ph balance of your leather and it needs to be neutralized with vinegar before your bootblack uses their kit to clean your leathers. Playa can also irritate skin, so bootblacks should exercise caution and wear gloves. Should that dust cross contaminate their kit, it'll ruin their entire kit and any leathers they clean after yours with the same materials. I encourage bootblacks to exercise caution and have a seperate line of creams, soaps, brushes, and conditioner for burner leathers.

Bootblack aftercare:

Yes, we need aftercare too. Let bootblacks do a little self-care between customers. Every play scene needs aftercare, and bootblacking is no different. Some scenes can be intense both physically and mentally. Let them stretch, have a drink, a smoke, a quick pee, a snack, or sit quietly for a moment before taking on another customer. If you want to sit in the chair to secure your spot as next, that's probably fine, just give them a moment to mentally and physically reset. They’ll let you know when they’re ready to carry on.

If you read this far, hi five 👋 if you see a bootblack at your events, pop a squat in the chair and take a moment to relax and indulge in a little tlc for you and your leathers. Don't be ashamend if your leathers are dirty or dehydrated. We're here to help you look your best and assist in making your leathers last for decades of debauchery.

- Ray